Every year, from May through to July, a cold northerly ocean current causes millions of sardines to gather in shoals and migrate north. Travelling a distance of over 1,000km along the rugged coastline from the Agulhas Bank towards Mozambique, the shoals form a swarming mass measuring up to 15km long, 3,5km wide, and 30m deep – a phenomenon visible by satellite. As the sardine run occurs so close to the shore, it is an event that everyone can experience – be it beneath or above the waves.
It remains an inexplicable phenomenon as to why the fish leave their nutrient-rich feeding and main spawning grounds of the Southern Cape coast for the emptier, sub-tropical Indian Ocean waters. To make matters worse, because of their appetite for plankton and the cold currents along the northern Eastern Cape and southern KwaZulu-Natal coastlines, the silvery swarm converges close to the shoreline and to the surface, making an ideal target for hungry predators higher up the food chain.
Once the shoals are located by predators both beneath and above the water’s surface, a feeding frenzy ensues, spawning one of the greatest wildlife events on earth. Snorkellers and scuba divers can witness one of the most fascinating hunting games where as many as 23,000 bottlenose and common dolphins employ a “bait ball” technique; expertly herding the sardines towards shallow waters where the little fish form massive, heaving balls measuring up to 20m in diameter. Tens of thousands of voracious Cape gannets can be seen plummeting like fighter planes from the sky, while super-pods of dolphins, seals, whales, sharks, and game fish pillage the swarm from below. Once the predators have gorged themselves on this rare feast, the sea becomes calm and seemingly lifeless once again.
Have a look at this short clip (there are plenty of other fascinating videos available on YouTube) to catch a glimpse of the experience – although I’m certain nothing could compare to being in the midst of it yourself!
How to see the sardine run
Scuba Dive: For advanced scuba divers, the sardine run is the greatest dive show on earth, with the “bait ball” being the biggest highlight. Every dive is pure adrenaline with sharks, dolphins, seals, and dive-bombing Cape gannets literally everywhere.
Snorkel: Snorkelling is just as rewarding for non-divers. Although most of the action is witnessed from a boat, there are ample opportunities to snorkel with dolphins, whales, and even sharks.
Boat: If you prefer to stay out of the frenzy, a number of boat charters are available to take you out to sea to see the frenzy from above. Just watch out for the plummeting birds.
Land: Get the binoculars and telephoto lens out and witness the action from land. The shoals get close enough to shore for you to catch a glimpse of the feeding frenzy from above. You can also head to the beach and watch the flurry of fishermen pulling in heavy nets full of the silvery fish.
Where to stay
Ocean Hideaway B&B, KwaZulu-Natal
Ocean Hideaway offers B&B and self-catering accommodation along the shores of Amanzimtoti near Durban. Enjoy breath taking, uninterrupted views of the Indian Ocean; a spectacular platform from which to view the annual sardine run, as well as playful dolphins and whales in season. The tastefully decorated en-suite units each have a private entrance, air-conditioning, bar fridge, and other luxuries to ensure a comfortable stay. There is also a sparkling swimming pool, private braai areas, and a communal lapa where guests can share tales of their sardine run experience. Find out more.
Umngazi River Bungalows & Spa, Eastern Cape
Umngazi River Bungalows & Spa is a gorgeous tropical African style hotel perched on the panoramic hillside of the Umngazi River mouth near Port St Johns, overlooking the scenic splendour of the Wild Coast. Umngazi offers accommodation in five types of thatched-roof bungalows that are tastefully decorated and well equipped to sooth your soul with luxurious comforts. When you aren’t staring in awe at the super pods of dolphins swimming past, you can spend your time on the secluded golden beaches, in the games room, tucking into delicious fare at the restaurant, or enjoying a pampering session at the spa. Find out more.
Have you ever witnessed “The Greatest Shoal on Earth”?
Image 1 by Jacopo Werther
Image 2 by David W. Siu
