If there is a recipe for creating a lifelong bond between people, it is to ship them off to Swellendam and ply them with copious amounts of decadent food and wine. Although the recent #swellenblog tourism campaign had plenty of adventure and a dash of good natured tomfoolery thrown into the mix, we quickly discovered that Swellendam is easily the most underrated foodie destination in South Africa. And if a bunch of bloggers who started out as strangers can eat off each other’s plates after only one course, then just imagine what a foodie adventure in Swellendam could do for your relationship!
Swellendam restaurants are constantly appearing in the Top 20 of the Western Cape Trip Advisor Traveller’s Awards – often outshining eateries in the culinary capitals of Franschhoek, Stellenbosch, and Cape Town. The food is as slow as the lifestyle. This is not to say that the service is lacking in any way. What I mean is that fast food is as foreign a concept as the ingredients that go into it. Aside from a Wimpy and small pizza take-away, the main road is void of neon logos and people queuing for their supper. Swellendam’s restaurants are warm and relaxed, with an atmosphere that invites you to take your time and kuier while enjoying exceptional food and wines.
I have to warn you, there is an art to dining in Swellendam. Firstly, you need to know that there is no such thing as a small portion in this town! Every restaurant caters to the massive appetites of hulky men whose beer mugs looks like china tea cups. Here are a few more things I learned…
10 Tips for dining in Swellendam
- Wear pants with stretch.
- Don’t bypass the starter menu.
- Combat food envy with the “sharing is caring” philosophy.
- Try the regional wines. They are excellent and you’ll find unusual varieties.
- Take your time. Take off your watch and switch off your phone.
- If you prefer to keep your phone on, follow our bloggers’ code of conduct and “tweet before you eat” with a photo of your meal.
- Don’t go to the same restaurant twice until you’ve tried them all.
- Chat with the owners and staff – they are friendly and you’ll hear interesting stories.
- Don’t be afraid to ask for recommendations.
- There’s ALWAYS room for dessert.
Eating our way around Swellendam
I don’t know how we managed to eat so much during the #swellenblog trip, but we left a dent in the town’s food supply and our scales back at home. I’ve come to the conclusion that the Swellendam food not only made our stomachs full, but our hearts too! Here are the eateries we visited in the Greater Swellendam region:
Tredici
We began our #swellenblog food affair at Tredici, a beautiful Italian-inspired restaurant whose elegant, imposing façade can’t possibly be missed from the N2 highway. Tredici is the Italian term for “a baker’s dozen” and they really know how to live out their philosophy of always delivering more than you expect. We enjoyed a platter of homemade breads and locally sourced cold meats and cheeses, served with an assortment of dips, from olive tapenade, to spicy hummus, and basil pesto.
I LOVE: The irresistible smell of baking bread, the delicatessen where you can stock up on padkos, and the tall windows that beautifully showcase the mountain backdrop.
Wednesday to Monday, 7am – 6pm | 68 Somerset Street, Swellendam | 028 514 2216 | [email protected]
De Companjie
Attention meat lovers! De Companjie has heard your cries for melt in your mouth steaks and answered with “The Black Beast”, a thick juicy cut from their very own cattle farm in the Northern Cape. To mix things up, I ordered the De Companjie burger – a beef burger with bacon, brie, and a berry relish. It goes down in the history books as one of the best decisions I have ever made.
I LOVE: The De Companjie burger may have to get a restraining order against me.
Wednesday to Saturday, 9am – 9pm. Sunday, 12pm – 9pm | 5 Voortrekker Street, Swellendam | 083 446 1123 | [email protected]
Diesel and Crème
If Elvis was Afrikaans and owned a back road diner, it would be Diesel and Crème in Barrydale. This eclectic eatery is packed with bizarre, old school memorabilia and signage, and the treffers are pumping so hard you just want to don cowboy boots and sokkie till your feet hurt. Their fruit laden waffle and decadent milkshakes are the perfect-on-the-road filler upper, and I would love to try their homemade cakes and breads next time. Watch this space, because their very own The Karoo Moon Motel will be opening soon!
I LOVE: Red velvet milkshakes!
Monday to Sunday, 8am – 5pm | Route 62, Barrydale | 028 572 1008 | [email protected]
Old Gaol
Set in an old house on the historical Church Square, the Old Gaol is a charming restaurant that will make you feel right at home. Wynand and Ilze have recently taken over ownership and their love for family fun and friendliness is evident in everything they do. Old Gaol is popular for its traditional foods and we enjoyed a fantastic selection of tasters, from creamy spinach soup to a boerepan of sizzling finger foods. To top things off, Kranskop winemaker, Newald Marais, was there to expertly pair each dish with one of his beautiful wines.
I LOVE: The melktert is baked in the traditional copper pan method (unlike anything you’ll find in the shops) and the roosterkoek breads are baked over the coals. Too delicious! Visit on the first Saturday of every month for their “Under the Oaks” market and don’t leave without writing your name on the chalkboard wall.
Daily, 8am – 5pm | 8A Voortrek Street, Swellendam | 028 514 3847 | [email protected]
Paradise Organic
Paradise Organic is a fitting description for this eatery in Suurbraak, a tiny village at the foot of Tradouw Pass. Owner, Greg Gill, is passionate about growing wholesome, organic food – not only from his pretty garden of roses and mango trees, but on a larger scale to benefit the community by supplying supermarket chains with specialised heirloom produce.
I LOVE: The flavour-packed organic honeys and jams that adorned our breakfast table. I’m not a big fan of naartjies, but Greg’s naartjie jam nearly found its way into my handbag. That and the jar of thick blue gum honey.
Daily, 9am – 4pm | 96 Main Road, Suurbraak | 028 522 1934
Schoone Oordt
Just about the only place we visited where you can eat something small was the elegant conservancy at Schoone Oordt. But to be honest, their high tea spread is so appealing to the eye that your stomach has little choice but to submit. It was tough resisting second helpings of the mint chocolate macaroons, fruit cocktails, and carrot cupcakes!
I LOVE: I could NOT resist second helpings of the chocolate truffles and savoury phyllo pastry treats.
Afternoon tea is a complimentary service offered to hotel guests, but can be pre-booked depending on how busy they are. Dinners can also be pre-booked. | 1 Swellengrebel Street, Swellendam | 028 514 1248 | [email protected]
Pennantwing
The Pennantwing gift shop cum coffee shop may not be my cup of tea in the décor department, but when you taste the freshness of their chicken wrap and teatime treats, it’s really doesn’t hurt to eat alongside a stack of tea cosies and silk flowers. Owners, Geoff and Loui, are wonderful hosts who serve you themselves – with a smile that never falters.
I LOVE: If shopping makes you hungry, Pennantwing is the perfect spot to enjoy both. You’ll find the perfect Swellendam keepsake at a great price.
Tuesday to Saturday, for breakfast and lunch | 5 Swellengrebel Street, Swellendam | 028 514 3957 | [email protected]
De Vagebond
De Vagebond had only been open for 5 days when we visited, but their menu has all the flavour of a lifetime of experience. Farmer turned estate agent turned restaurateur, Hannes Pieters, is the new owner of De Vagebond, which underwent a major revamp in only a few short weeks. To cater to the desires of the public, Hannes has added sushi and an extensive cocktail list to the offering. Chef Adrian Buchanan has done a masterful job of creating a lip-smacking menu that will have diners returning time and again.
I LOVE: Although the mains and desserts were delicious, the starter menu was my favourite. We struggled to decide what to eat, so we shared the Skilpadjies, Snails, Crumbed Calamari, and the exquisite Fuji salad of cabbage, crispy spring roll pastry, crab sticks, Japanese mayo, vegetable crispies, avocado, nori, and litchi.
Monday to Friday, and Sunday, 12pm – 10pm. Saturday, 5pm – 10pm | Voortrek Street, Swellendam | 028 514 2221 | [email protected]
Christina’s at Van Loveren
It’s easy to see why Christina’s @ Van Loveren is so busy on the weekends, and even easier to taste! Set on the beautiful Van Loveren wine estate, it’s the perfect place to while away a lazy day or keep your stomach lined for wine tastings. The laid-back atmosphere was enhanced by a live musician strumming on his guitar and several dogs sitting placidly alongside their owners in the bistro.
I LOVE: The gourmet beef burger paired with the Van Loveren Shiraz. It wasn’t my dish, but that’s why we love the “sharing is caring” philosophy.
Monday, and Wednesday to Friday, 11am – 3:30pm*. Saturday and Sunday, 10am – 3:30pm* (*last orders at 3:30pm) | R317 between Robertson and Bonnievale | 072 604 6275 | [email protected]
Despite the mass consumption of the #swellenblog crew, there are so many restaurants we didn’t visit. I can’t wait to go back, so please let me know what eateries you recommend in the Swellendam region!
Disclaimer: #swellenblog was a media bloggers trip organised by Swellendam Tourism Brand Manager, Amanda Shackley. I was there by invitation on behalf of TravelGround and did not pay for any of the abovementioned meals. All thoughts and photographs are my own unless otherwise stated. Kind thanks to Jon Meinking for supplying some of the photographs in this post.