Somerset West is a beautiful and surprisingly affluent town situated around 45km from Cape Town in the Helderberg region of the Western Cape. I must admit that while I have driven through this town countless times on my trips out of town, I had seldom thought more of it than a simple “30 minutes to home” landmark and I barely gave it a second look as I raced happily towards my final destination.
However, after spending a leisurely Sunday exploring the town, I have come to realise that Somerset West has a lot more to offer. There’s no reason to travel as far as Paarl, Stellenbosch, and Franschhoek to enjoy a day of wine and sunshine. The beautifully kept streets and gardens in Somerset West make it well worth the time spent to stop and smell the roadside roses.
First stop: Lourensford Wine Estate
When my dad told me that we had spent many of my childhood years at a friend’s wine farm in Lourensford, I couldn’t believe it was the same place that I visited this past Sunday. I have many happy memories of playing hide and seek in the vineyards and swinging off rope swings into a dam, but what little I remembered was nothing compared to today’s experience.
Lourensford Wine Estate is a mammoth estate with sprawling, carefully attended estate greens, winding pathways, and enchanting mountain views at every turn. While the waterways were not full while we were there in the winter, it wasn’t hard to imagine how even more blissful the estate must be in the summertime.
Wine Tasting Centre
The Wine Tasting Centre is a formidable building. Half a horse stands sentry at the entrance and invites potential wine tasters into the depths of the centre. Wine tasting can be enjoyed indoors in the Wine Tasting Centre, but as we found it a little dark for such a bright sunny day, we opted for a picnic table on the lawns – despite the slight mushiness brought on by the winter rains.
Lourensford offers a standard wine tasting of 5 wines and a chocolate and wine pairing (3 reds and a honey liqueur paired with a range of chocolates). While they don’t offer any other food pairings, a little chat with our friendly sommelier revealed that they have some boutique cheeses and olives for sale, and although they don’t advertise it, they will happily cut and serve the cheese and olives with your wine. And if you liked the wine you tasted a little too much, you can send some to your friends at just R3 a bottle on top of the bottle price! Winning.
- Standard tasting: R30 for 5 wines
- Chocolate and wine: R55 for 4 wines
Wine tasting and sales are available Monday to Sunday, from 09h00 – 17h00 (including public holidays). Cellar tours by appointment only. Closed on Easter Friday and Christmas Day.
Where to eat
The Millhouse Kitchen
As we missed the breakfast rush by just a few measly minutes, I’d recommend heading here early as they only serve breakfast until 10h30. The Millhouse Kitchen has a tasty smattering of dishes on offer, to suit everything from starving bellies to slight after-wine nibbliness. They have an indoor section with a fireplace and two outdoor sections overlooking the grounds and water features.
Tuesday to Saturday: 08h30 – 10h30 (breakfast), 12h00 – 15h00 (lunch), and 18h30 – 22h00 (dinner). Sundays: 08h30 – 17h00 (kitchen closes at 15h00).
Coffee Roasting Company
Another tasty treat awaiting visitors to Lourensford is the Coffee Roasting Company. Watch the coffee being roasted and receive expert advice from the baristas. It’s the perfect alternative to those (strangely) not looking for wine, and it makes the job of designated driver that much easier to bear!
Monday to Sunday: 09h00 – 17h00.
Second stop: Vergelegen Wine Estate
With 18 formal gardens available, it should come as no surprise that Vergelegen Estate is THE most beautiful wine estate I have ever stepped foot in (and I’m not alone in this opinion. Vergelegen has been judged the South African Best of Wine Tourism winner for the third time running). The splendour of the massive estate was well worth the R10 entrance fee we had to pay per person, and we were grateful for this when we realised how the nominal fee stopped the beautiful gardens from being ridden with noisy families that may spoil the ever-tranquil gardens. We drove into the parking lot and took a little mosey through the grounds, walking through the Herb Garden and lavender labyrinth, Reflection Garden, rather sad-looking Rose and Hydrangea Gardens (it was winter), before heading back through the Enchanted Forest.
Wine Tasting Centre
The Wine Tasting Centre has an understated elegance. Here you can enjoy tasting a variety of estate wines, as well as do a cellar tour. You’d be wise to note that the multi-level cellar has 70 stairs and is not suitable for anyone with walking difficulties or disabilities. Children are not permitted to do the cellar tour.
- Standard tasting: R30 for 6 wines
- R10 each for Vergelegen G.V.B red and G.V.B white wines
- Cellar tours: available from 11h30 – 15h00 daily
- Cellar tours cost: R20 a person
Wine tasting is available daily from 09h30 – 16h30, sales from 09h30 – 17h00. Groups of 10 or more are encouraged to make a reservation.
Where to eat
Stables Restaurant
The Stables Restaurant has a very laidback bistro-style atmosphere that caters specifically for families. We chose a spot outdoors at one of the little lounges with comfy sofas facing the East Garden and Hottentot’s Holland mountain range. My eyes were immediately drawn to the wine glass fountain that I will one day have installed in my dream house, and the kiddies’ playground that made me (a little too) envious of the fact that I was too old to play in it.
The restaurant is perfectly set for couples on a date and families with little kids who enjoy the peace of mind of keeping an eye on their kids as they play. I highly recommend ordering the cheese platter – it’s technically a dessert, but so what, you’re an adult!
Monday to Sunday: 09h30 – 11h30 (breakfast), 11h30 – 15h30 (lunch), and 09h30 – 16h00 (tea and coffee)
Tip: Don’t forget to get a picture with the giant acorn a little further along the gravel pathway. Your kids will love the reference to Scrat, the crazed squirrel from Ice Age….
Camphors Restaurant
Camphors Restaurant is the signature restaurant of the estate and the more formal option for those looking to dine at Vergelegen. Camphors overlooks the lawns and gardens and takes its name from the 300 year old camphor trees guarding the historic homestead. Bookings are essential.
Wednesday to Sunday from 12h00 – 15h00 (lunch) and Friday and Saturday from 18h30 – 21h00 (dinner).
Picnics
If formal dining isn’t your thing, I’d highly recommend the picnic option at Vergelegen. During the summer months, the Enchanted Forest and adjacent Great Lawn comes alive with picnickers enjoying their feast in the shade of the trees. Tables are prepared and baskets are filled with scrumptious feasts, with items like artisanal bread, farm butter, olive and feta pate, pastries, salads, charcuterie, cheeses, desserts, and aromatic filter coffee. Vegetarian options and kiddies baskets are available.
Picnics cost R195 per person, and R95 for a kids basket.
November to April: picnics can be collected from 12h15 – 13h30, and close at 16h30. Booking essential.
Garden and Heritage Tours
Garden tours are offered as a chance to explore the grounds with a knowledgeable guide. The hour-long tours depart from the Wine Tasting Centre.
Take a walk and explore the 18 formal gardens on offer, including the Reflection Garden, Herb Garden, East Garden (with kiddies’ playground and maze), Octagonal Garden, Maple Tree Garden, Certified Camellia Garden of Excellence, Wetland Garden, and more. Other features include the Old Mill Wall, Slave Lodge Site (not that interesting – just a patch of grass), a library, and plenty of age old camphor and oak trees. While I visited during winter, the rose and hydrangea gardens were mere ghosts of their springtime selves, so I highly recommend going during the flowering season!
- Cost: R20 per person
Garden tours: 10h00 daily
Have you visited Lourensford or Vergelegen wine estates? Let us know your thoughts in the comments below! For the ultimate (responsible) wine weekend, book a stay in Somerset West.
