South Africa’s Wild Coast, formerly known as The Transkei, is a magical area of unspoilt coastline and infinite emerald magnificence that has captured the hearts and minds of travellers for decades. And yet this area has somehow retained its innocence and slow way of life. Here the green hills are endless; they rise up all around you dotted with colourful mud-brick rondavels and are littered with animals grazing the land. Young children with hearts of gold and the widest smiles pause from their soccer games and run to greet passing vehicles with delight, all the while shouting greetings of “Molo, Molo!”
A thousand rivers of sparkling water run between the hills and bring life to the villages, eventually returning to the sea and forming magnificent river mouths. The entire territory spans from North of East London up until the Southern border of Kwa-Zulu Natal and is also the traditional home of the Xhosa people. The Wild Coast has witnessed the births and been the home to many remarkable South African leaders, including the late Nelson Mandela.
One of the most accessible and beautiful areas along these enchanted shores has to be Coffee Bay. Coffee Bay has a humble population, wealth of natural beauty, charming places to stay at, and, all importantly, a road.
The road down from the N2 (near Umtata), can be described as perilous at the very least, but is thankfully made up (mostly) of tarmac. Potholes flourish in the Eastern Cape like natural organisms that seem to thrive in groups and are capable of swallowing entire tyres at a time. As if they are not challenging enough, during the time you’ve spent with your nose pressed up against the windscreen trying to avoid them, it’s not uncommon for an entire herd of cows to suddenly decide that now is the time to cross the road, forcing you to apply the brakes and end up with your nose, once again, firmly up against the windscreen!
In all seriousness, however, take it slow. The views are breath-taking and as you wind your way down toward the coast you begin to experience a shift in perspective and witness a way of life that has remained true to itself for many years. It’s incredibly special.
Why Coffee Bay?
Contrary to its name this legendary town produces not even one coffee bean. So, why is it named Coffee Bay? The fascinating story goes that in 1893 a ship filled with Coffee Beans ran aground and spilled its consignment into the ocean, resulting in hundreds of thousands of coffee beans being washed up ashore. Hundreds of coffee beans did eventually take root in the area, but tragically not a single one survived the salty shores. Needless to say the event had such an impact on the community that still today the town retains the name “Coffee Bay.”
Activities
Should the mood take you, there are many things to do in this adventure wonderland. You have a choice between swimming in the warm Indian Ocean currents, fishing in the abundant river mouth, and sunbathing on either the beach or on the green grassy hills with nothing but cows for company. You can surf, scuba dive, venture out on horseback, tackle a round of golf, or do nothing at all. The choice is yours. We decided to explore Coffee Bay on foot along its many hiking trails.
Staying at one of the private Coffee Shack residences we decided to join a group hike to the famous Hole-in-The-Wall. The wall is a huge cliff face just off the coast with a hole that has been eroded through it, forming a remarkable natural feature and an instagrammer’s delight.
Unfortunately the tour was cancelled that day as heavy rains (warmly welcomed after a long drought in the area) had made the roads impossible to navigate and our vehicle couldn’t get us to the beginning of the trail. So instead we went on a coastal hike that turned out far more spectacular than I could’ve imagined.
We walked along rivers and rudimentary roads, along cliff faces and in-between the homes of villagers. Smoke poured out the roofs of rondavels as the people within cooked their meals and pigs, goats, and sheep had the run of the land. It was absolute bliss. Souls surrendered, we eventually made our way back home, took long hot showers, and joined the communal supper later that night; after which star-gazing, the sound of bongo-drums, and laughter were on the menu for desert.
As you enter Coffee Bay there is a sign to your left and upon it, the word “Paradise” has been inscribed. And it truly is. There are no frills here and there is certainly no fuss, the order of the day is rustic relaxation, chance meetings, new friends, casual clothing, and good times. I believe every South African should make the journey to the Wild Coast at least once in their lives.
Have you visited Coffee Bay? Let us know how you enjoyed your stay!
