It’s not every day you get to watch whales from your bathtub. Unless you’re staying on the cliffs of De Kelders, that is. De where? It’s likely you’ve never heard of this little suburb on the northern end of Gansbaai, despite the fact that De Kelders is one of the world’s best whale watching destinations. Hermanus may be known as the The Whale Watching Capital, but after a weekend of southern right whales almost breaching into my lap, I reckon this little nook of Walker Bay is Hermanus’ best kept secret.
The cliffs of De Kelders are an impressive sight, and so is the view from them. The ocean’s horizon stretches from Danger Point to Cape Point, which is visible on a clear day, encompassing the entire Walker Bay. Despite being an ideal hideaway, De Kelders has managed to avoid large crowds of tourists and is very quiet for most of the year, picking up over whale season and in the December holidays. According to local guest lodges, at least 80% of their business is from returning overseas guests. So why don’t more South Africans – especially Capetonians – know about this incredible gem?
Quiet and loving it!
As the sleepy sister of Hermanus, there’s not all that much to do in De Kelders besides spot whales, explore the cliffs and caves, and chill; but that’s kind of the point. De Kelders’ biggest attraction is that it’s not a big attraction. And the residents, holidaymakers, and even lodge owners aren’t looking for a change. In fact, they love the peace so much, they’ve even voted against street lights. And having walked the length of the suburb at half moon, I can tell you the stars are so bright that you don’t need the gaudy neon lighting.
Whales
From our balcony at 65onCliff we could hear the whales’ deep, husky, hollow blows and the delayed crash of water as they breached and slapped their tails. It’s understandable how many a new resident has lain awake at night, convinced of suspicious activity in the neighbourhood, only to find it’s these water giants on their nightly escapades.
De Kelders is a mating and birthing ground for southern right whales, who return every year between July and December. Mothers and calves are a more common sight than neighbourhood dogs, and will often spend an entire day floating alongside the cliffs.
There is also the option of a boat based whale watching. Ivanhoe Sea Safaris was the first charter company to receive a whale watching permit. After extensive research along the Cape Whale Coast, they discovered that De Kelders is the second best whale watching destination after De Hoop Nature Reserve, and so they chose to operate here.
Great White Sharks
Driving through Gansbaai, there’s almost an invisible boundary where ocean adventures focus away from whales and on to sharks. A short drive past Gansbaai is Kleinbaai (Van Dyks Bay according to Google), the home of shark tour operators like Marine Dynamics, White Shark Diving Company, Sharklady Adventures, and Great White Shark Tours. The aura of the village is very different to that of De Kelders and there’s a veil of apprehension across visitors’ faces. I guess landmarks like Danger Point don’t do much to ease charged nerves.
Cliffs & caves
The steep cliffs have many secluded coves with small rocky beaches and ancient sea caves. We were ecstatic to discover our first cave until Bruce, a 10 year old kid from the neighbourhood, informed us that this was the least popular of all the caves, and that there was an extensive cave system running from De Kelders to Hermanus – the very thing that inspired the name “De Kelders”, which is Afrikaans for “the caves”.
Although we didn’t get the opportunity to visit more caves, we learned about a number of them. Drupkelder is the only freshwater cave with natural mineral water on the coast of Africa. Archaeological excavations reveal evidence of ancient Khoisan inhabiting Klipgat Cave. Another interesting cave is Duiwelsgat. The result of a collapsed cave ceiling, this gaping hole opens to a sea cavern and has a small wall built around it to prevent livestock falling into it.
Eating out
Don’t expect fast service. The restaurants we experienced are not that way inclined. But I’m not going to fault them on that. This is real life where things are forgotten and time moves slower, but patience is a common virtue. And while you’re waiting for your delicious food to arrive – which is cooking in a kitchen your mom would feel comfortable in – you can sit back, switch off your phone, and enjoy a conversation face to face.
- Die Buitesteen
Die Buitesteen is a local hangout in De Kelders – especially when the rugby’s on! Part pub, part grub, Die Buitsteen is an unpretentious haunt with gun-slinger cum fish-wrangler décor. Enjoy daily dinner specials like Friday night ribs (R64) in comfy booth seats from a bus or train, and then hook a right under the fishing boat into the bar area. The food and drinks are affordable, so it’s likely to become a regular holiday watering hole.
Contact: +27 (0)28 384 0601 or [email protected]
Address: 3 Dover Street, De Kelders
Open: Monday – Friday, 11am – late; Saturday 10am to late.
- B Blondes
If you’re looking for the best pizza in town, head to B Blondes at the Gansbaai Harbour. It may sound like a hairdressing salon, but it’s actually just a great place to let your hair down and enjoy a leisurely meal. Snuck under the Oppideck Pub, B Blondes has a wide menu that hints at an infatuation with biltong (it’s the only item offered as an extra on the pasta menu). There is no chance of being hurried away from your table here!
Contact: +27 (0)28 384 1666 or [email protected]
Address: 2 Hawe Weg, Gansbaai
Open: Tuesday – Sunday, 12pm – late (closed Sunday evenings)
- Other restaurants recommended by locals:
Kloeks@home
Ideal for: Small, intimate dinners in an unpretentious setting.
Contact: +27 (0)28 384 2769
Address: 78 Devilliers Street, De Kelders
Open: Daily from 6:30pm (dinner only).
Blue Goose
Ideal for: Seafood and sundowners.
Contact: +27 (0)79 310 1770
Address: 12 Franken Street, Gansbaai Fishing Village
Open:
- Monday – Thursday, 6pm – 10pm
- Friday – Sunday, 12pm – 2pm and 6pm – 10pm
Red Indigo
Ideal for: 5-star fine dining
Contact: +27 (0)28 384 8000 or [email protected]
Address: Grootbos Private Nature Reserve on the R43
Open: Daily for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
Stay at 65onCliff
Officially opened in April 2014, 65onCliff is a new accommodation in De Kelders. You couldn’t ask for a better position than on Cliff Street, where little more than a road separates you from the shoreline, and you can easily watch whales from your balcony, bed, and bathtub!
65onCliff is a textural feast. Bold modern lines give way to soft, furry blankets. Cold, split face tiles offset the flow of hot water from the large shower head. Mirror lamps, wooden blinds, velvety orchids, satin headboards, and thick bath sheets create a tangible sense of luxury.
Each room is named after a local cove – Otterbaai, Mudge Point, Sopiesklip, and Langbaai. They are almost identical in features and layout, but have individual colour schemes and decorative touches. Although each room has a separate en-suite bathroom, most also have a bath in a corner of the suite, beside tinted windows, from which you can indeed spot whales!
Highlights include an elevator for wheelchair access (one of only 8 built in Gansbaai), automated lights in the bathroom (which can be a shock at 3am), Kleet & Monks toiletries (with a fresh unisex fragrance), and breakfast cooked as you like, when you like, by the lovely Bernice (who also runs the Kloeks@home restaurant up the road). If you’re likeable enough, Stewart, the owner, may even share his good-natured charm with you at the breakfast table.
If you’re looking for somewhere new and peaceful to explore, put De Kelders on your radar – especially when the whales are visiting too.
